pointysticks.net

Please note, there are many different types and grades of vinyl sheeting, this guide specifically refers to double polished clear vinyl although many of the tips can also be applied to other grades and styles of vinyl it’s best to check with manufacturers recommendations for best results.

My vinyl was purchased from a selvage bin, due to being too wrinkled to sell at full price. I was warned (scolded actually) “You can’t iron it!” by the sales lady. I had no idea how much vinyl I was buying for $6, as it was folded down into a deceptively small package. Only when I unfolded the vinyl (nearly a year later during a cleaning spree) did I discover that I have obtained about 4 yards x 54” of the stuff.

Ironing

If the vinyl is not wrinkled, I suggest not ironing it. However, if there are wrinkles, iron on a medium temp (between permanent press and steam) between two sheets of paper. Typing or copier paper (not printed) sheets will work for smaller pieces, for larger pieces use baking parchment. Smooth and hold the vinyl and paper sandwich steady with one hand, and move the iron at a good pace with the other. Don’t allow the iron to rest on any one spot. When smooth, allow the vinyl to cool between the papers for a few seconds. Reposition the vinyl and continue ironing as before.

The vinyl will grow a little due to the stress of ironing; any pieces cut to size prior to ironing will need to be trimmed according to pattern.

Cutting

Use a rotary cutter and mat. Simply lay the piece over the grid, mark the lines with a fine line dry erase pen and cut as normal. Smaller pieces can be cut using scissors or a craft blade, depending on preference.

Securing

Pinning will leave holes, thus—don’t pin. There are few options; use paper clips (not very good) or finger press the seams in place (good) or use a mini iron to temporarily press the seams together (very good.) Tape will also work but sometimes leaves a residue which will need to be removed later.

Sewing

Use a large sharp machine needle, leather needles are preferable. Use a roller foot (designed for thick stacks of fabric) to prevent the vinyl from gripping to the metal. If no roller foot is available use a nylon foot with sewing lubricant (a fabric safe silica spray, not the sewing machine oil.)

Set the stitches to a fairly long setting, stitches which are too close together will cut the vinyl. Choose a stitch pattern that you like, since it will be visible.

Use a matching heavy duty nylon thread for the upper and lower feed; lower the tension setting to zero, and with a piece of scrap fabric stitch one inch, bring the tension up to the next highest setting and stitch another inch, continue until the stitch tension is balanced and stop at that setting. For vinyl my machine is set to 2 or 3 depending on how many layers are to be sewn.

When stitching, use the left hand to keep the pieces weight balanced and the right hand to guide the seam from the back. I know the temptation is to guide within an inch of the feed dogs and control the speed of the feed with pushing and pulling the fabric, don’t do it—it’s bad for the machine, and makes the stitches wonky. Let the feed dogs pace the stitches, the results will be much more polished.

Making a basic tote

Cut two pieces of vinyl 13×11 inches. Fold across the top (an 11 inch side) a 1 inch hem on each piece, use a metal or cardboard straight edge to iron so that seam stays in place. Face pieces wrong side together, hems at top, and seam around remaining three sides.

Cut 2×2 inch square from the bottom (sewn) corners. On one corner, pinch the cut area so that the seams align and the cut area forms a straight line. Stitch closed. Repeat for other side.

Turn right side out and use fingers to attenuate the corners of the newly formed gusset.

If desired, use paper and iron to press seams down.

Use grommets to create stable holes for inserting ready or handmade made handles, or cut two 3×14 inch pieces of vinyl for making straps.

Basic tote straps

Fold pieces in half lengthwise (use a metal or cardboard straightedge and an iron to keep fold in place), open up and fold each side ½ inch towards the inner fold (again use a straightedge and iron) when both sides are folded straight stitch together.

Mark (with dry erase pen), desired strap placement (make sure that strap and tote have 1 inch overlap) and stitch straps in place according to marks.

Enjoy your finished tote!

Going Beyond

An army of clear totes can be a pretty boring proposition, so I only suggest making one as a practice piece and then use the basic construction techniques to make new and exciting variations. Think of this tote as a spring board for your own creativity.

To make bias tape

Cut a long strip 2 inches wide. Fold (wrong side in) lengthwise, iron neatly. Open up and fold one side in again, so that it meets the inner crease, and iron. Repeat with the remaining side.

To use bias tape, place over raw edges of fabric, pin (or not, if you’re feeling cocky) and stitch in place as desired.

To trim top

Use a hole-punch and space holes evenly to add larks head fringe or a crochet top. Stitch rickrack or bias tape onto the hem before or after sewing the front and back sides together (before is easier to control, however there’s the risk it might not line up exactly.)

To freehand or trace artwork

Use Sharpie brand markers or other similar permanent pens, the metallic permanent markers seem to take longer to dry and are more prone to wearing off. I have found that my Tulip fabric paints dry nicely but slide or peel off of vinyl, however, that’s the only brand I’ve tested. I’d love to hear if anyone has success with another brand or has found a way to fix the Tulip paints onto vinyl. Glitter glue (no brand, from the dollar store) will stay fixed, however it’s a PVA based glue and is water soluble, which means that it fogs on humid days and will eventually wash off when exposed to enough moisture.