pointysticks.net

A few weeks ago (as of this writing) I started sifting through my sewing machine presser foot collection, then I started organizing it, then I realized that although I knew what each foot was for (or what I used it for at least) I didn’t know the names of half of the feet I had, and some of the names were iffy at best.

So label maker in hand and using google image search I more or less identified them to my satisfaction and I learned a few things (like the “seamy flippy foot” is actually a flat felled seam foot and can actually be used to flat felled seams instead of faking the flat felled seams with a zipper foot and a ruler.)

One would think that between sewing and tailoring professionally for several years and teaching others to sew I might have picked up a bit more about sewing machine feet and the actual names of the machine feet.

Please note that I have amassed my collection over quite some time and own multiple machines– so you’ll get to see a mix of high shank, super high shank, low shank, slant shank and quick change feet. For the purposes of this page the shanks don’t really matter just the actual foot part.

Straight stitch feet: I’m relieved to admit that I actually knew what these were called all on my own.

You’ll also hear these referred to as quilting feet.

The purpose of these feet is simply to join two pieces of fabric together for a seam, typically right sides facing each other.

Just in case you’re curious both of these are low shank feet.

Opened toed feet for free form quilting and embroidery.

The key to using this particular foot is to either drop the feed dogs so they don’t engage the fabric, or to use a face place on your machine and a special hoop or frame.

You can then maneuver and manipulate the fabric in any direction at any speed with any stitch width by directing the frame. You’ll almost always need a stabilizer on the back of your fabric to use this foot effectively.

This foot has a raised area under the shank to allow tight raised  stitches to pass through easily, so its more appropriate for zig zag stitching and appliques, whereas the above foot I prefer to use almost exclusively for decorative straight stitching.

Your projects won’t die a horrible death if you fail to have these particular feet for freeform stitching but the hoop and stabilizer combination will keep you sane if you do use these feet.

Button hole feet & button foot: Interfacing, stabilizer or buckram is essential for prettily non-puckery awesomeness where buttons and button holes are concerned.

Also, I think if you’re going to do button holes on your machine you should consider having at least one of each plastic and metal. The plastic buttonhole foot has little bumpy points that reach down onto your fabric and hold it, the metal ones usually have a nice rubbery pads between the two, you should be able to negotiate button holes in everything from wool jackets to delicate satins.

The basic button foot can handle small buttons, check the depth of the heel of the foot. Ideally your button with be just about that thickness or less.

Lift the presser foot, scoot the fabric into place and smooth the button over the mark (you did mark your fabric right?) Then adjust the width of the zig zag so that the needle falls into the holes and not hit the button, roll the drive by hand a few times, then hit it with electricity.

Make sure that the machine is set to 0 st per inch or that the feed dogs are fully disengaged before trying to sew on the button. For 4 hole buttons, do the above twice.

Rolled hem feet: Not much to say here, these are for rolled or handkerchief hems.

If you have a tailor’s stiletto or a purple thang or a plastic cocktail sword go slow and use the flat point in your left hand to help ease the fabric into the guide, once you get the hang of that you can put tiny rolled hems on pretty much everything.

The Roller foot: I thought this might have some fancy technical name to it, I’ve always called it the roller foot– turns out that was the right name.

Its used for sewing anything that doesn’t really want to move gracefully under other pressure feet. All versions of this foot should be hinged at the heel, if its not hinged then it can’t move over thick stacks of fabric as well (good with batting, polar fleece, velvet, crushed velor, poodle, faux fur, even thermal knits) I also use this foot with vinyl and plastics to reduce drag.

Flat felled foot: (aka the seamy flippy foot)

You’ll typically find flat felled seams associated with denim jeans and jackets.

The first seam is sewn right sides out, then the seam allowance is turned down and inward and straight stitched. That’s a flat felled seam.

It’s like a hem, that goes down your pants. Or.. something.

You can also use this foot for a tidy hem if you don’t have a rolled hem foot, just overstitch (zigzag over the edge of the fabric) fold down and use the foot as a guide on straight stitch, not as graceful or as long wearing but in a pinch it works pretty well.

The pleater foot: Part presser foot part machine, the pleater can either create pleats on one layer of fabric, or pleat one layer as its being stitched onto another layer. Depending on your desires pleaters can get quite expensive, however if you’re intent on sewing miles and miles of draperies a good pleater will cost you much less than a bad psychiatrist.

Pleater foots (feets?) are also worth their weight in spray painted gold when your child is somewhat obsessed with dress up tutus and aprons.

I know these things.

Pin tuck foot: For making pin tucks silly. This foot drives people crazy, mainly because people like me fail to mention you need to use it in conjunction with a twin needle.

And then just to rub salt in the wound we point out that your fancy shmancy sewing machine doesn’t take twin needles, then we cackle mercilessly while we treadle our ancient iron machines.

I digress. You need to have a machine that accepts twin needles and have dual feed for thread. Otherwise,  this thing will just torment you with those pintucks you don’t have and you can’t make.

Bias Tape Foot: I’m always a little leery when I get to skip an ironing step when I’m sewing, but that is what this foot encourages. Cut a biased strip of fabric 1.25 inches thick, and sew it right on and then guiltless ironing (and a little gloating) afterward.

Although these were considered spendy feet back in olden times (which according to my daughter is any generation before her) they were (and are) well worth it. I know we all use bias tape on quilts, but you can salvage a beloved blouse or dress with some creative bias tape application, as well as refurbish old sheets and towels.

My paternal grandmother lived through the Great Depression and although she didn’t sew much, she did manage to pass on some wise and frugal teachings.

The Blind-hem foot: Yes, its for doing blind hems.

But you can also use this foot for applying  the thinnest (or fattest) knife pleats, as an edge seamer and (if you’re new to sewing and still need a little extra help staying in a straight line) a seam guide.

Who could ask for more?

That would be me. Turns out that my youngest machine is also the one machine that will not take a twin needle (which is sort of considered essential for stretch fabric hems and neck lines) the good news is that this is the perfect foot for keeping an even distance on stretch settings with or without a twin needle. So no homemade t-shirt look for me (which is good, because I have far more severe fashion issues to deal with.)

I think that’s it for now.